This is a how to instructions guide for taking macro photography and extreme close-ups with Panasonic FZ200. Hence the title, how to macro photography with Panasonic FZ200. Download toad sql for mac. ? Please note that this article is written for a specific DSLR camera, but people with point and shoot cameras can also benefit from information provided on macro photography techniques.
How to macro photography with Panasonic FZ200 – macro settings guide.
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“The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes but in having new eyes.”
– Marcel Proust
This article will cover:
Macro photography allows us to see the world from a different perspective. Extreme close-up photos can be mesmerizing, and will add a different dimension to your photography toolbox – which consequently means that your reputation as a photographer will improve drastically. If you would like to learn more, please read on – it is very easy to do once you know how to, and very impressive to your followers. – Nicole Lisa Photography
What is macro photography?
Macro photography is the terminology used by photographers for taking “Close-up” or “magnified” photos of any chosen object or animal. The photographs producing are extremely detailed, showing detail beyond that which is visible to the naked human eye. However, macrophotography is slightly more technical than simply taking close up photos, and if the term “macro” is to be applied to the image being taken, one has to achieve a magnification level greater than 1:1. In other words, the image being captured on film, or on the imaging sensor of your DSLR camera), must be larger than that of what is being photographed. This does not apply to an image which has simply been made larger in post processing, and we shall therefore explain what kind of equipment you will need in order to understand how to macro photography with Panasonic FZ200.
“Life is all about the little things. They complete us.”
– Alexander Van Dorph (author of Cognitive Disturbance)
What equipment do I need to do macrophotography?
The question should really be, “what equipment do I need to take professional looking macro photos?”
1. DSLR CAMERA![]()
The fact that you are reading up on this, shows that you have an interest in photography. Obviously the best camera you could have, is a DSLR, which these days are not too expensive. Seeing that you’ve found this article ‘How to macro photography with Panasonic FZ200’, implies that you already have a Panasonic FZ200 (or want one). Anywho, this is a perfect camera to start with – your way to learn how to macro photography with Panasonic FZ200. You will need to use equipment that is compatible with the Panasonic FZ200.
– UPGRADING? Read more about one of the Panasonic flagships: THE PANASONIC DMC GX7KS“You cannot depend on your eyes when your imagination is out of focus.“Panasonic Lumix Dmc Fz200 Review
– Mark Twain
2. MACRO LENS
The second most important piece of equipment is a Macro Lens. This is a specifically designed lens for this type of photography, and it will not fail you. You could try to make a cheaper version, buy a cheaper lens or even use a magnifying lens, all of which will impart a degree of the magnification possible – but also create a degree of blur. The optically superb macro lens can be found in the link provided, and will last you a lifetime.
– Panasonic Leica DG Macro-Elmarit 45mm/F2.8 ASPH Lens
– Read more here: Panasonic Leica DG Macro-Elmarit 45mm
Hands down, one of the best macro lens for Panasonic DSLR cameras. One of the sole favorite amongst Amazon customers, currently having collected an impressive 5/5 star rating with 32 customer reviews. Inner focus motor system makes action smooth and silent when capturing still and video content. Make sure it is compatible with your camera though – you will find out via the product description site. Invest in this and you’ll take your photography to another level. Here are a couple of photo examples, shot using this macro lens:
Notice the fascinating details seen due to the amazing capabilities of the macro lens. This is not something you would see with cheaper alternatives.CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE ABOUT THE PANASONIC MACRO LENS.Highest rated customer review (recommended reading):“The Panasonic/Leica Elmarit 45mm F2.8 macros is a little bit controversial because of it’s price. However there are a lot of considerations. Built by Panasonic but designed by Leica and built to Leica supervised quality standards.
This lens is quite small and light, a perfect match for the mFT (Micro Four Thirds) cameras as size and weight are design considerations to match the systems. It is very well built solid construction with a blend of plastics and metal. Compared to better quality Macro lenses it is smaller and lighter by a good margin. It is most often compared to the Olympus Zuiko 50mm F2 which is one of the finest macro lenses built for the four thirds sensor systems or any system for that matter. The 50mm is heavier, larger and requires an adapter to be used on mTF cameras. On olympus mTF 50mm autofocus works erratically, on Panasonic mTF autofocus of the Olympus 50mm does not work at all, you must use manual focus . Auto aperture works with both. This same applies to any other “legacy” macro from other manufacturers. You can get adapters for about 90% of all legacy lenses made to use them with mTF cameras but most will be either fully manual, standard four third lenses will work with auto aperture but only some will provide autofocus. However, as of this writing, the 45mm F2.8 Elmarit is the only macro lens designed and built specifically for the mTF system cameras (Olympus and Panasonic). Hacking wifi using mac. Some mTF zooms provide some very close focusing but none of the zooms provide true macro.
The 45mm is an internal focus lens. This means that regardless of focus distance the front element of the lens never extends or changes position. The 50mm Olympus, is an extending design (as are most macro lenses), so the front element extends out farther the closer you get to the subject. While I don’t have the ability to perform a technical comparison, generally this may means that at 1:2 magnification, an internal design, the front lens element may not be as close to the subject as an extending design. For most photography this is not significant but for macro it is. The actual focus point is internal to the lens optical system, not the front lens element. The closer the front lens element is to the subject, the more it blocks the light reaching the subject (because you are very, close). So internal focus lenses may provide the maximum possible clearance for the front element making it easier to light the subject. There can be exceptions so this is not a hard rule.
Another consideration is “Effective focal length”. You may read where advertisers promote a lens or camera based upon “effective focal length” Effective focal length is relative to a 35mm film camera or a full frame digital camera. On a full frame 35mm or digital camera, the optical focal length and effective focal length are the same in most cases, so the field of view is relative to the effective focal length. The shorter focal length, the wider the field of view (wide angle) the longer the focal length, the narrower the field of view (telephoto). Most digital sensors are smaller then full frame and are said to have a crop or magnification factor. For Four Thirds and micro four third sensors, the crop factor is 2X. Therefore the effective focal length of the 45mm is 2X or 90mm. This is a short telephoto and the advantage is it provides a longer working distance for macro shots.
The 45mm also makes an excellent short telephoto and portrait lens. The 45mm has a focus limiter switch on the lens. When turned on under normal use this allows you to restrict focus range to normal distances so the lens does not search through the macro range. It speeds up auto focus in these circumstances.
So there are some top end legacy macro lenses that are technically sharper then the 45mm F2.8 and some that are faster. They are also larger and heavier and currently cannot provide some auto focus or in some cases auto aperture with mTF systems. It is important to understand that this does not make the 45mm a bad lens, quite the Contrary, the 45mm F2.8 is an excellent pro grade lens. It is very sharp, well built, focuses quickly at normal ranges, will search some at macro, typical for almost all lenses in the macro range. I love the lens and it is to me worth every penny.
The lens will focus to 1:1 magnification (life size) directly without an extension tube. Many macro lenses will only focus to 1:2 including the 50mm F2 Olympus lens and therefore require an extension tube to get all the way down to 1:1 magnification. (extra cost, size and weight)
Image quality for both telephoto, portraits and macro is very good to Excellent wide open at F2.8 to F11. Some deterioration at F16 to F22 due to diffraction but still good to very good (this is common for most digital sensors smaller then full frame and is an excellent performance overall)
Vignetting: (corners darker then center) is noticeable (mild) wide open but insignificant stopped down 1 stop. (Very good)
Distortion: There is none which is optically excellent and better then most. (Excellent)
Chromatic Aberration: Color fringing is very mild at most apertures and not significant or detectable to most people. (very good)
Bokeh: The term bokeh is the blur or the quality of the blur in out-of-focus areas of an image, or “the way the lens renders out-of-focus points of light or highlights. Ideally they should be very smooth and blended with no significant sphering or octagonal shapes. There is no technical specification for Bokeh. It is a subjective evaluation made by the viewer or photographer. For me, the 45mm Bokeh is “Very Good” but not excellent.
Focus speed: I can only evaluate this as used on the GH1 as I haven’t used it with other mTH bodies. Extremely fast, almost instant in good light. Fast in low light, Searches some in very dim light or if the subject(s) are of very dark (black) or of very low contrast in low light. Overall, as fast or faster then my Olympus E3 DSLR with 12-60 lens. (an excellent performance) — I don’t shoot much video but did a brief test in my apartment with low to dim lighting, using only 2 60 watt bulbs in one corner, bounced off the wall. I found the video focus to be better then most but not instant. The 45mm has virtually silent autofocus so the autofocus lens produces no noticeable noise when
Overall for features, internal focus, size, weight, match to the system, image quality, focus speed and versatility I rate this lens as Excellent with some exceptions for vignetting wide open, very slight color fringing and Bokeh. Not matter how you measure it, it still comes up as a true professional quality optic.” – D. Robinson
“Beauty is in the details. Often unseen, nonetheless beautiful.”
– Alexander Van Dorph (author of Cognitive Disturbance)
Here’s another photo example, this time capturing an astonishing close-up photo with unique resolution:
– Feeling inspired?CLICK HERE to learn more about the macro lens – or the other available lenses.3. TRIPOD
The third most important piece of equipment is a tripod. This is obviously dependent on what you intend to photograph. However, since you’re into macro photography, it is very likely you would want to take shots of flowers, spiders, water formations, snow crystals and/or a range of insects or objects. Depending on the object, and how likely it is to run away if you get too close, a tripod can provide the stability, and close proximity needed to capture that unique shot of a rare insect or object. First there is the the professional tripod. In this case a Ravelli 70″ Tripod with Adjustable Pistol Grip Head and Heavy Duty Carry Bag.
– Read more: Ravelli 70″ Tripod
Already have a tripod you say? Well, I bet you don’t have a Gorillapod – this tripod can be attached to all sorts of things where traditional tripods couldn’t. Check it out, it is pretty cool. is it essential in how to macro photography with Panasonic FZ200? Perhaps not, but it may give you an unique angle and provide you with a breath-taking photo.
4. REMOTE SHUTTER TIMERRead more: Professional Timer Remote Control Shutter for Panasonic“This digital timer remote is designed to trigger a camera shutter with regular time intervals, self-timer, interval timer, long-exposure timer, and exposure-count settings.”
Made for PANASONIC Lumix (GH2, G2, GH3, G3, G1, GH1, GF1, GX1, G10, FZ50, FZ30, FZ20, FZ150, FZ100, LC1, L10, L1), LEICA Digilux (2, 3), and V-Lux (1, 2). Includes a MagicFiber Microfiber cleaning cloth.
– If you have any questions regarding anything or specifically about this product, you can ask them via our Facebook page or directly on the product description site.
A remote control timer will allow more distance between you and your desired subject. Whether it is wireless or or cord. The one described permits you to stand even further away from your camera, ensuring that the subject is in focus before taking the photo, and could enable you to take more unique and interesting macro images than your competitors – plus you avoid unecessary movement which is crucial to long exposure photography. The timer has many other functions in additon to the ones mentioned. A crucial ingredient in ‘how to macro photography with Panasonic FZ200’.
5. High-quality, high-speed MEMORY CARD (Recommended)
If you are using a high-quality DSLR, then your memory card needs to be up to speed to match the camera’s performance. The extreme pro series allows for professional speed, consequently capturing more shots in continuous burst mode or faster processing when dealing with high-quality files which takes up more data storage. Ensuring you don’t miss any important shots or spend too much time waiting for memory card processing.
READ MORE: SanDisk Extreme Pro 64 GB SDXC Class
To recap, you will need:
– DSLR
– Macro Lens
– Tripod
– Remote controlled automatic shutter
– Slider (optional)
“Everything has beauty, but not everyone sees it.”How to macro photography with Panasonic FZ200 – What settings to use?
Once you are all set up with your equipment, the obvious question comes to mind; “what settings do I use…?!”
This is dependent on where you are, and what time of day it is – as the amount of light available will play a vital role.
Depth of field is very important, the main reason being that when you are so close up to an object, you need to make sure that a suitable large area of the subject is in focus. You wont be too impressed when you finally get to see your images on the big screen, and find out that the antler is the only thing you managed to get in focus of your rare fire ant. On the other hand you can of course adjust the settings to artistically pick out areas of interest that you want to focus on, but understanding the settings you need is the first will help shape your abilities as a photographer. The depth of field is dependent upon the aperture (F-stop), which is explained in more detail below.
The aperture (f-stop)
The aperture, or f-stop (same as focal ratio, f-number and relative aperture) controls how wide the lens is during a shot. A wide aperture (low f-number) means that your lens is open quite wide, allowing a lot of light in during the shot. A high f-number means that your lens is not open as wide, therefore limiting the amount of light in any given shot. In macro photography – is is best to shoot with a narrow aperture, and therefore high f-number/f-stop – as more of the image will be in focus. An example of what is being described here can be seen in the photo below.
As you can see, an f-stop of f/1.4 is larger than that of f/2.0, and much larger than that of f/8.0.
Back to the depth of field
If you want all the areas of the subject in focus, a large F-number (for example f/32), will help you achieve this. More of both the background and foreground objects/details will be in focus. A smaller f-number (and therefore larger aperture) such as f/1.2 will isolate more of the foreground from details in the picture that lay more in the background, meaning the foreground will appear sharp and the background will appear blurry. An example of this can be seen in the picture below. The picture on the left has a large depth of Field (meaning both the foreground and background elements are in focus), and therefore has a high f-stop and a narrow aperture.
Explanation: The picture on the right has a low depth of field, therefore a wide aperture, and low f-stop. The focus is therefore on the leaves, but as you can see the background is not in focus. This can be a cool effect if you utilize it correctly.
Should I use manual focus or automatic focus?
Focussing sharply on a subject in macro photography is perhaps the hardest element to perfect in macrophotography. The lens depicted earlier is a good way of avoiding this obstacle though, but in general it is best to use manual focus, after you have already focussed on the subject using auto-focus. A combination of the two. You can do this by focusing automatically on the subject first, and once you are sure it is in focus, switch to manual focus. Simples, right? This will ensure that when you are ready to take the picture, and press the shutter button, the lens won’t try to automatically re-focus, thereby causing you to have to set up your shot again.
Which size macro lens should I buy?
The most popular choice of macro lenses is around 40-100mm, like the – Read more here: Panasonic Leica DG Macro-Elmarit 45mm. Download meter mac os x.
There are so many macro lenses out there, that it can be hard to decide which to buy. You may have seen the different types, with differing focal lengths; 50mm, 60mm, 100mm and 105mm. But what does the focal length mean for camera performance?
The lower the focal length of the lens, the closer you will need to be to the subject, and it will be therefore harder to take good macro photos of injects, or objects that move. This is an extremely important consideration to take into account.
For example, using 60mm macro lens, will mean you really need to be physically close, even directly next to the object. It is likely you will also cast shadows over the subject, and light is an important factor. Using a 100mm lens will give you that extra length. You can stand nearly 1 meter away from the object, and still get extremely good macro photos, without casting shadows and without potentially scaring your subject away. With the 60mm lens, you have to stand only 15cm away, and as explained, this can at times be problematic – for example if you are photographing a cheeky insect or due to your own shadow.
Article: How to macro photography with Panasonic FZ200.
By: Nicole Lisa Photography for Super Stoked Magazine – talk with her directly in our FORUM (NicoleLisaPhoto), visit her facebook page or website.
“Where beams of imagination play, The memory’s soft figures melt away.“
– Alexander Pope
Photo credits: C. Smith, Gengler, A.S.D.R, Hamser, Canon promo and Wikimedia Commons.Words: Nicole Lisa Photography, Tammy Winters and Alexander Van Dorph (author of Cognitive Disturbance)You may also like:
Users who don’t know how to transfer photos from Lumix camera to iPhone could take this post as a tutorial. We have listed two ways to transfer photos to iPhone, keep reading and learn more on it.
iPhone Photos TipsExport Photos from iPhoneImport Photos to iPhoneFix iPhone Photos ProblemsOther iPhone Photos Tips
Although iPhone might be the most-used camera in the world, it still can not replace camera in some extent, because camera enables users to take higher quality photos and has more powerful functions. Here in this post, we are going to focus on how to transfer photos from camera, more specifically, from Lumix camera to iPhone. Keep reading and check the details.
How to Transfer Photos from Lumix Camera to iPhone via AnyTrans
To transfer photos from Lumix camera to iPhone, we need to transfer camera photos to computer first. Due to the unique operating system of iPhone, it is not easy for users to transfer contents such as photos from computer to iPhone. Apple tools such as iTunes and iCloud could only transfer photos stored in your Apple ID, they are not helpful for adding photos to your iPhone.
As a result, we need third-party software to help. Here we choose AnyTrans. These are the reasons why.
Now just free download AnyTrans and follow the step-by-step guide to see how to transfer photos from Lumix camera to iPhone with AnyTrans.
AnyTrans – iPhone Photos Transfer
Want to transfer photos from Lumix camera to your new iPhone 7/8/X/XS (Max)/XR? This article is intended to show you two ways to transfer photos from Lumix camera to iPhone. Keep reading on this post to learn more.
Step 1. Use a card reader to copy and paste the photos you want to transfer to your computer first. Install and open AnyTrans, connect your iPhone to your computer.
Step 2. When AnyTrans has detect your iPhone, click Device Manager at the main interface. Then click Add Content.
How to Transfer Photos from Lumix Camera to iPhone via AnyTrans – Step 2
Step 3. A window will pop up displaying all available pictures, choose the photos you want to transfer and click Open.
How to Transfer Photos from Lumix Camera to iPhone via AnyTrans – Step 3
Step 4. When it shows Transfer Complete, your photos from Lumix camera are successfully transferred to iPhone.
How to Transfer Photos from Lumix Camera to iPhone via AnyTrans – Step 4
How to Transfer Photos from Lumix Camera to iPhone via Wi-Fi
Apart from using computer and third-party software to transfer photos from Lumix camera, there is another wireless way for users to transfer photos via Wi-Fi. However, this method requires your Lumix camera to be Wi-Fi available. If you are not sure, searching your camera model number on Panasonic official website to make sure. Please follow the steps below to see how to transfer photos from Lumix camera to iPhone via Wi-Fi.
Step 1. Download Panasonic Image App from App Store.
How to Transfer Photos from Lumix Camera to iPhone via Wi-Fi – Step 1
Step 2. Press MENU > Set Up > Wi-Fi > Wi-Fi Function > New Connection > Remote Shooting & View on your camera. There will be a SSID together with Password as well as a QR Code appearing on your camera.
How to Transfer Photos from Lumix Camera to iPhone via Wi-Fi – Step 2
Step 3. Go to Settings > Wi-Fi Connection on your iPhone, find the camera Wi-Fi [SSID] and connect it with password.
Step 4. When your iPhone has connected with your Lumix camera’s Wi-Fi, you could transfer photos through Panasonic Image App.
How to Transfer Photos from Lumix Camera to iPhone via Wi-Fi – Step 4
The Bottom Line
As you can see, whether your Lumix camera is Wi-Fi available or not, you can find a way to transfer photos from camera to iPhone. And besides photo transfer, AnyTrans also supports users to transfer music, contacts, messages, notes and so on. If you are interested in it, download AnyTrans now and have a free trial.
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